Chris Terrell

Below are the words which are written around the borders of the images from this series. The pictures are ink drawings, with watercolour, and are from my original sketches in the sketchbooks which I took with me on each journey in 1988 & 1993. The first few words can be considered the title of each picture. The words are from my notes at the time, later reflections and memories of the scenes and moments when I made the sketches. They are an attempt to convey the impressions of my other senses and experiences, to add a greater sense of context to the visual images. 'Thumbnail' versions of the pictures are included on this page, click them to see larger versions (150 to 250k).

Click here to visit the Oregon Gallery pages for these pictures.

Turkey 1988 - I travelled with Paul Engeham, Jonathan Madden & Paul leDruillenec to Van then by bus to climb Mount Ararat from Dogubeyazit. Having achieved this central objective we went on northwards to visit the ruined Armenian city of Ani and the old city of Trabzon, remembering the cry of "thalassa!" that Xenophon's army gave when they saw the sea again after their epic campaign through Asia Minor.

APPROACHING THE CITADEL OF VAN IN WARM EVENING LIGHT OUR TAXI BUMPING ALONG HOT & CROWDED SMELLING OF LEATHER & DUST & CIGARETTES
LOOMING MASSIVE ANCIENT ROCK & MUD BRICK OVER TRADE ROUTES OLDER THAN MEMORY PERHAPS THE DRIVER'S ANCESTORS ATTACKED THIS OLD CITY OR DIED IN IT

WALKING THROUGH THE CITADEL OF VAN IN THE EVENING SUN SWIFTS CHASE & SCREAM A HOOPOE FLIES BY SCENTS OF SAGE & FLOWERS RISE FROM THE SLOPES ON DRIFTING AIR
SOUNDS OF WAILING SONGS AS BOYS HERD THEIR FLOCKS HOME THE CALL TO PRAYER AS WE RETURN TO OUR TAXI DINNER CARDS & BEER IN THE BUSTLING TOWN

ARARAT FROM HOTEL ISFAHAN IN DOGUBAYAZIT BIRD SONG & STREET SOUNDS SITTING ON A SHADY PATIO ENJOYING A BEER & WRITING HOME BEFORE TOMORROW'S CLIMB
OUR GUIDE ARRIVES IN STETSON & JEEP PROMISING FINE HORSES TO CARRY OUR BAGGAGE TO THE CAMPS THE WEATHER IS LOOKING GOOD WE CHECK SUPPLIES & SLEEP WELL

REST DAY AT FIRST CAMP ON MOUNT ARARAT STORMS BUFFET THE SUMMIT & WE PLAY CARDS EAT LUNCH OF CHEESE SWEET HONEY & SOFT BREAD & EXPLORE DEEP GULLIES
SENTRIES FROM THE MILITARY CAMP STROLL BY CAPED IN THE COLOUR OF THE ROCKS OUR GUIDES ARE SINGING & DANCING IN THE RAIN WHILE THE HORSES GRAZE WELL TODAY

ISHAK PASHA SARAYI ON ITS ROCKY OUTCROP ABOVE THE PLAIN SMALL FLOWERS BLOOM FROM SHADY CREVICES UNDER CURVING DOMES & GRACEFUL RELIEFS IN OCHRE STONE
BEHIND THIS PALACE FORTRESSES SPROUT FROM PINNACLES ON JAGGED RED CRAGS IN THE HAREM BLUE & WHITE TILES REMAIN ONLY SWALLOWS PREEN HERE NOW

REMEMBERED VIEWS ON THE ROAD TO IGDIR MOUNT ARARAT DOMINATES FOR MANY MILES PAST HOUSES TRUCKS FIELDS OF GOLDEN CORN & STORKS NESTING ON TELEGRAPH POLES
HOT & DUSTY SUNSHINE LOUD MUSIC ON THE BUS HOT DAMP TOWELS & LEMON SCENTED COLOGNE ARARAT'S SUMMIT FADES LIKE A DISTANT CLOUD WAS OUR CLIMB A DREAM ?

IN THE RUINED ARMENIAN CITY OF ANI THE BASILICA STILL STANDS AMID THE DEVASTATION PILES OF MASSIVE CARVED & INSCRIBED MASONRY POPULATED BY CHATTERING STARLINGS NOW
EMPTY SOVIET WATCHTOWERS GAZE OVER THE BORDER RIVER CLOUDS GROW FROM THE WEST HOT SQUALLS BLOW DUST & GRIT IN FURIOUS EDDIES WE REACH THE CAR AS STORM HITS

GLIMPSED FROM THE BUS THE MENS' SCYTHES SWING TOGETHER IN STEADY RHYTHM WHILE WE SPEED ON NORTHWARDS ACROSS THE GREAT ROLLING PLAINS & HILLS DESCENDING INTO ARID GORGES
A WELCOME BREAK FOR LUNCH IN THE BAKING HEAT A SHADY RESTAURANT UNDER OVERHANGING ROCK THEN ON BESIDE A THUNDERING RIVER & INTERMITTENT THIRSTY SLEEP

AT HOPA ON THE BLACK SEA REST & LETTERS HOME AFTER THE LONG BUS JOURNEY NORTH THE SUDDEN CHANGE FROM PLAINS & ARID GORGES TO MOIST TEA-PLANTATIONS WAS A SURPRISE
DRINKING LOCAL TEA ON THE TERRACE AS RAIN GENTLY FALLS THE CALM IS BROKEN BY A MUFFLED EXPLOSION AS MEN FROM THE SHIP THROW DYNAMITE FOR THE FISHES

HEADING FOR TRABZON WE PASS TEA PLANTATIONS WITH PICKERS FILLING HUGE BASKETS & BEARING GREAT GREY-WRAPPED BUNDLES OFSWEET SMELLING LEAVES TO THE FACTORIES
ON OUR RIGHT LONG PROMENADES BY THE BLACK SEA A HUGE FIST IN GILDED BRONZE GRASPS THE FLAG WHEELING SCAVENGING GULLS SQUABBLE OVER THE SHORE

CIKMAK SOKAK IN OLD TRABZON FOOTBALLING CHILDREN CROWD AROUND TO WATCH ME SKETCH & INVITE ME TO VISIT THE OLD CHURCH NOW A MOSQUE DEEPLY CARPETED & QUIET CALM
A RELAXED MORNING DRINKING TEA & EATING SWEET BAKLAVA IN THE SHADE OF TREES ON THE MAIN SQUAREWATCHING PEOPLE STROLLING TALKING READING IN THE SUNSHINE

AYASOFYA ISTANBUL VAST DOMESRISE HEAVILY GRACEFUL ABOVE THE FRENETIC CITY ENTERING THROUGH GREAT DOORS INTO VISTAS OF ARCHES & PALE DUSTY LIGHT
AMIDST AUSTERE PLASTERWORK FRAGMENTS OF GOLD THE OLD MOSAIC SAINTS SHINE THROUGH THE SHADOWS GAZING CALM WHEN BELLS & LOUD OFFICIALS EXPEL VISITORS

FROM THE TOPKAPI PALACE THE DOMES & MINARETS EMERGE LIKE ISLANDS OF STILLNESS FROM ISTANBUL'S FUMES & BUSTLE & SMALL BIRDS SING IN THE SHRUBS BELOW THE TERRACE
INSIDE FADING TREASURES FROM PAST SULTANS GLOW BEHIND GLASS
THE CITY RUMBLES WITH ACTIVITY I WALK THROUGH MARKETS LOUD WITH MUSIC VOICES & TRAFFIC SMELLING HOT FOODS
 
 

Chris Terrell

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